Palas de Rei

I must say I am tickled pink with myself for taking charge yesterday. Yesterday I thought I would stop my walk at about 23 kms only to find myself in THE worst hostel I have stayed in. Sure, it was modern. Yes it had showers but zero character and it was on a busy highway and it was so sterile. And they told me the next hostel was 11 kms away which seemed too far to walk. Not only that but there were far nicer places to stay just around the next bend. The hospitelera neglected to mention that. Odd really. So I had my shower, washed my clothes with tooth paste, had some soup at the snooty restaurant next door, and then had a nap. This was all done by 5 pm and dinner wasn't to be until 7 pm. I was going out of my mind in my bunk. I listened to these 3 germans carry on a conversation in the dorm, while people are trying to sleep or read. I gave one of them a glare but the message was lost. To make matters worse, one of the people talking was part of a group I called the stick ladies. Yesterday morning, I left in the dark at about 7 am to walk along a stony path. About 20 minutes later, these loud sticks accompanied by loud women overtook me in the dark with not even so much as a hello or buen camino or anything. They took a wrong turn ahead and I enjoyed the silence until they overtook me again.... sounding like a scary monstrous singer sewing machine. Anyways, the stick ladies were also staying at this characterless dorm. Not a good omen.

So at 5:30 PM, I packed up my bag, put on my boots and set off into the sunset to the next sizable place, Palas del rei. I had the paths to myself because everyone else was done walking for the day. I watched multiple sunsets because I was climbing in rolling hills so I think I counted three glorious sunsets. It felt so liberating to be walking at that time of day. I felt as fresh as I do in the mornings. And I've missed being out in that part of the day. OK. I´ll admit it. I was a little scared walking through deserted hamlets as it was getting dark. I got to the city about 8:30 or so. Stopped to rest my bones outside a hostel where a lovely american girl offered me a glass of wine and sparkling conversation. She was a breath of fresh air and she loved my story of how I just bolted from the last hostel. Anyways we had a delightful conversation and then she gave me excellent directions into the city. There I was walking down a black, dark path on the outskirts of the city only lit by her directions in my mind. I walked to the centre of the city. The hotel told me everyone was sold out... all the pensiones.... So there I was bone tired at 10 with my pack. I urged her to call someone... anyone. She did. I lucked out and got a fabulous pension for 24 euros that met and exceeded all my needs. I am going to have a shorter, luxurious day today. I am going to kick around this city for as long as I like. It is another glorious sunny day.

I feel strong, powerful and comfortable in my skin. I am wearing exactly what it comfortable and I consider stylish in my fashion. My cafe con leche is delish. My only annoyance is I am in a non smoking cafe....

I just tried to download some pix but am not having luck. Another time.

So only 68 kms left to walk. I think I will take my time for a few days but who knows. I might just find myself power walking into the sunset again.