Santiago for another day

Santiago sin muchilla

My new friends in Santiago, Montessa and Luis

I am having another town day before I go off walking. Today I have walked from one end of Santiago to the other. I bought my overnight ticket to Madrid for October 3rd. I splurged and got a sleeper. Then I walked to the other end of town to the bus depot. Then it was off to the post office to retrieve my kitchen sink etc, stuff that didn´t get to walk with me.... thankfully. I have run into several camino friends today and I have a dinner date tonight with Pieter from Denmark. I haven´t seen him since Astorga.... many days ago. I hope I run into Gabriel from southern spain. I want him to teach me how to say marviolosa like a spaniard. The way he says it.... is marviolosa.

I ended up having dinner last night with two delightful american women who did a camino lite. They started in Leon, I think. They would walk 6 or 10 kms a day and had their bags and suitcases transported for them, hotels lined up, tours. It was interesting to hear their approach and I think they found my approach interesting as well. They thought they were going on a walking tour of Spain and knew precious little about the historical significance of the camino. Now they know a little more. Afterwards I went for a night cap and met Montessa, a bubbly gal born and raised in Santiago. She took me under her wing and we walked around Santiago arm in arm showing me corners and shadows and a gallery displaying the work of her favourite photographer friend. She introduced me to a friend of hers, also born and raised in Santiago and the three of us spent hours talking, walking, eating, drinking coffee. Montessa reminded me of an irish spanish lass. I was exhausted and satisfied after. My spanish comprehension is better but I still feel awkward a little when I speak. Montessa has a fishing background so we got to swap deckhand stories. I felt priviledged to tap into Santiago last night. That is thanks to studying the language and just getting out there and seeing what happens. I love that about travelling.

So tomorrow it is back to walking through quiet hamlets bound for the ocean. This is considered the pagan part of the camino. Tomorrow is a long day. 35 kms because the villages are spread far apart. I have managed to lighten my pack a bit and my body is having a nice rest day. Walking today without a pack is freedom. All my chores are pretty well done.

My trip is winding down. But thankfully, I get to do just a little more walking. I suspect it will be quite thrilling to see the sunset at the end of the earth.

Hasta pronto.

So now my mission is just walk around sunny Santiago and soak up some sun and see who is walking into Santiago today. Oh and eat absolutely dilicious food of course.

Santiago de Compostela

Last night´s laundry line. Clean dry socks.... nothing better than....

The sunset I walked into and well beyond the other night. I walked until about 10 at night.

I just finished eating this delightful seafood salad in a tapas bar in Santiago. Muy muy rico!

Another Galician delicacy... queso con membrillo, Soft heavenly cheese with a sweet fruit paste

Los pulpos (octupus, the signature dish of Galicia) Oh... my... god... these were sooooooooooooooooo good! Bread wine and pulpos and I shared the table with a couple of Spaniards that go to this pulperia once a week no matter what to eat these lovely morsels. This was my favourite meal to date but I have had many close seconds...

There is a short period of time in the morning just when the sun gets up that the shadow is super tall.

Somwhere just outside of Sarria in the last 100 km stretch

One can walk for hours and hours in these shaded corridors that outline the fields.

Spanish shaggy manes

I am just puckering up to kiss this cow in Fonfria.

I strolled into Santiago at 10 am this morning. I haven´t even pulled out my camera to take the obligatory picture of one standing in front of the oldest cathedral in Spain... but I will. Before I forget. I loved the walk here but I must say the journey was more fun than reaching the destination. I only walked 1o kms today. I miss having my pack on. Crossing bridges and seeing what is around the next bend. I am finally hitting my stride. My body decided it was happiest walking 30 kms a day, especially into the sunset. I found myself having a delicious leisurely lunch complete with wine, dessert, cafe solo with a splash of orujo for digestion, 2 hours later I was good to go.

I went to the pilgrim´s mass at the cathedral this morning. The place was packed. Cameras were flasihing. Poorly dressed tourists/pilgrims were everywere walking around looking rather stunned. As I sat in the uncomfortable pew, I realized who was I kidding. All I really wanted to see was the giant perfumeria, the giant inscence ball that takes 8 men to pull the rope to move the thing in order to get it to swing in the church. All of a sudden, the organ gets loud and the men starting heaving on this rope, It was used to hide the scent of the smelly stinky pilgrims. Now it is a huge tourist spectacle and people watch it through the screens of their digital cameras. I heard that the ball would swing at the end of the service, so I gave my seat up in the pew to go out to walk around.

So no pictures of the perfumeria. The internet is full of them. Not sure I have the right word.

So I found myself a delightful pension near the cathedral for 20 Euros. Originally, I thought I might like to hand around for a day or 2 but instead I think I will continue walking tomorrow for another 90 kms to Fisterre, the end of the earth. That bides me 3 more days of walking and then gulp it´s time to carry on the camino.... at home.

This has been the best trip ever. Walking for days on end solves a lot of problems and clears the mind or rather empties it out. I still think of John from time to time and surprisingly I think of him rather kindly. He wasn´t a great dad. Some how I am managing to cut him some slack. I think I am relieved in some ways that he is dead becuase that means he can no longer hurt my feelings by not acknowledging my existence on countless birthdays and many Christmases. I am grateful he died while I was away. It has given me time to just be. Nothing else.

I am feeling a tad lost today in Santiago. I feel like I am all alone and have lost my camino friends. I have run into a few and I am hoping I run into a great group of Spaniards I met a few days ago. One professed undying love for me as I was washing my socks two days back,. I ran into the trio earlier today but we seem to have gone our own ways for the time being. The day is still young and Santiago is a small place. I feel like kicking up my heals a bit.

One observation about Spain before I sign off. In Cuba and Mexico, music, over modulated music blares everywhere. Where I have been in Spain, I barely hear music. The odd store might have some playing and I always make a point of finding out what we are listening to. Today I heard music from Colombia and Puerto Rico... Nothing else. I asked Gabriel why this is and he says Spaniards like to hear themselves talk.

I would like to live in Spain one day in the not so distant future. I particularly like Galicia

I am off to wander around some more, and maybe have some more morsels of mariscos.

I probably won´t post again until after I get back from Finisterre in 3 or 4 days. It will be wonderful to see the ocean again. Saludos a todos.

Oh yes, and I better get that picture taken in front of the cathedral.

More later

Palas de Rei

I must say I am tickled pink with myself for taking charge yesterday. Yesterday I thought I would stop my walk at about 23 kms only to find myself in THE worst hostel I have stayed in. Sure, it was modern. Yes it had showers but zero character and it was on a busy highway and it was so sterile. And they told me the next hostel was 11 kms away which seemed too far to walk. Not only that but there were far nicer places to stay just around the next bend. The hospitelera neglected to mention that. Odd really. So I had my shower, washed my clothes with tooth paste, had some soup at the snooty restaurant next door, and then had a nap. This was all done by 5 pm and dinner wasn't to be until 7 pm. I was going out of my mind in my bunk. I listened to these 3 germans carry on a conversation in the dorm, while people are trying to sleep or read. I gave one of them a glare but the message was lost. To make matters worse, one of the people talking was part of a group I called the stick ladies. Yesterday morning, I left in the dark at about 7 am to walk along a stony path. About 20 minutes later, these loud sticks accompanied by loud women overtook me in the dark with not even so much as a hello or buen camino or anything. They took a wrong turn ahead and I enjoyed the silence until they overtook me again.... sounding like a scary monstrous singer sewing machine. Anyways, the stick ladies were also staying at this characterless dorm. Not a good omen.

So at 5:30 PM, I packed up my bag, put on my boots and set off into the sunset to the next sizable place, Palas del rei. I had the paths to myself because everyone else was done walking for the day. I watched multiple sunsets because I was climbing in rolling hills so I think I counted three glorious sunsets. It felt so liberating to be walking at that time of day. I felt as fresh as I do in the mornings. And I've missed being out in that part of the day. OK. I´ll admit it. I was a little scared walking through deserted hamlets as it was getting dark. I got to the city about 8:30 or so. Stopped to rest my bones outside a hostel where a lovely american girl offered me a glass of wine and sparkling conversation. She was a breath of fresh air and she loved my story of how I just bolted from the last hostel. Anyways we had a delightful conversation and then she gave me excellent directions into the city. There I was walking down a black, dark path on the outskirts of the city only lit by her directions in my mind. I walked to the centre of the city. The hotel told me everyone was sold out... all the pensiones.... So there I was bone tired at 10 with my pack. I urged her to call someone... anyone. She did. I lucked out and got a fabulous pension for 24 euros that met and exceeded all my needs. I am going to have a shorter, luxurious day today. I am going to kick around this city for as long as I like. It is another glorious sunny day.

I feel strong, powerful and comfortable in my skin. I am wearing exactly what it comfortable and I consider stylish in my fashion. My cafe con leche is delish. My only annoyance is I am in a non smoking cafe....

I just tried to download some pix but am not having luck. Another time.

So only 68 kms left to walk. I think I will take my time for a few days but who knows. I might just find myself power walking into the sunset again.

Sarria 112 kms left to walk

Good morning,
I am in Sarria and I am just kicking around. The rest of the walk is easy and all too short. 112 kms seems like a walk in the park now. I can take pictures now but this computer won´t let me download any.

I had a lovely dinner last night with two aussie brothers I keep running into. This morning I got up and walked into the city with a young french girl, 18 who has been walking for two months. That´s all she wants to do is walk until she decides what to do with her life. Sounds like a great plan.

When I am away from the computer, I think of things to say but right now my mind is a little blank. It´s a gentle warmish day. I have been blessed with perfect weather on this trip. I´ve only had to whip out the rain poncho once for half an hour.

From here on in, the camino gets busy with people starting in this city. You only need to walk 100 kms in order to qualify for a compostela certificate. There is a sentiment that these people are tourists. It´s odd to see who thinks he or she is a real pilgrim. There is no such thing as far as I am concerned. Funny how we are always trying to make our place in the world.

I am very happy to be in this place. My body is so so strong now. My face feels relaxed and I am genuinely happy when I am walking and I often find delightful places to have a picnic. Now is the time in the journey that people start talking about the changes they hope to make in their lives. I have resolved to have more picnics all the time alone and with friends. One can have a picnic anywhere. Oh and walking to work, only 9kms without a pack should be a snap.

Sorry I don´t talk much about what I am walking through. The pictures will show that I suppose. Not much to say really other than I don´t think I have felt this content for so long in a long time. I look forward to continuing walking today and walking over bridges and rounding corners not knowing what is coming next... or who I am going to meet next or reconnect with....

I will probably be in Santiago on or around the 29th or 30th at an easy pace. It feels like the hard work is all done now and now I just simply have to stroll, see and breathe.

I continue to be greatful for taking this walk at this time.

Time to get out of this city and see what is next. Hopefully I can post some pictures soon.

Cheers, mg

Tricastala some 132 Kms left to walk

Just approaching O Cebreiro, (altitude over 1,000 m) The air was so damp if felt like you could drink it.


And now we are in the province of Galicia! 152 kms to Santiago de Compostela


Greetings from Tricastala,
I have been staying in hamlets and just passing through cities if you can call them that. Yesterday, I climbed all day and then climbed some more to the highest part of the camino. I thought I might like to stay in the village at the top, O Poio (1,337 m) but opted not to. It was creepy in the fog and an old man told me as I was climbing the last steep chunk of the hill, that very few pilgrims opt to stay here. I am now in the province of Galicia. I walk through the fog and listen to the cow bells. Every now and then, the cows approach me as they are on their way to work. I was kissing a cow yesterday for a photo and lost my composure and dropped the camera so I will have to do creative camera work like I have done before when I travel without a camera. It just means giving my email address to lots of people...

This morning was glorious as I did the steepest descent on a surreal trail in the rolling hills of Galicia. I was reminded of the smell of Uncle Bill and Earl´s farm ie mucho manure... There are now waymarkers every kilometer or so now and I am just a little sad to see the numbers getting smaller. I am feeling so strong and fit so I can walk longer without a break and longer into the day. It also helps now that it is cooler so we don´t bake in the sun as we walk.

I am at a fork in the road so I need to go have a little breakfast and decide which route I want to take to today which will eventually take me to Sarria.

I have new camino friends now and seem to be surfing a nice wave in that area.

Sorry this isn´t very newsy. I just stumbled upon this internet place in an albergue so I hadn´t thought of what I wanted to say.

Until later. Marjorie

Villafranca del Bierzo 194.3 kms to Santiago

A cow on the way to el Acebo

A field of grapes on the long way into Vallafranca del Bierzo

The view as I rested in the shade this afternoon in Pieros.

Yesterday in the line up to get into the albergue. I got there early so I had already changed into my evening gown and had my clothes drying on the line....

No book or sign agrees with how many kms left to Santiago. I saw one optimistic sign at my hostal I am staying at tonight at 177 kms.... Hmmmn. Tomorrow and the next few days are the hardest physically because there is a long steep up followed by a long steep down followed by yet another long steep us and a long steep down. It is the down part that is hard on the bones. I was supposed to have an easy day but on the way out of Ponfrerrada this morning, I hooked up with two spanish boys from Madrid. Today was their first day of the walk. It was dark and there was one sign that was very misleading so at 8:30 PM, we were right back where we started and hour and a half earlier. That probably added another 5 or 6 Kms to walk so right now I am feeling very tired.

I found myself a storage room in the hostal to sleep tonight. Delux accommodations indeed. Maybe I ought to take a picture of it. It looks a little grim but it suits all my needs and it beats being on the top bunk in a crowded tiny room with other sleepers.

Villafranka is lovely and hilly with lots of inviting places to eat. As we get closer to Galicia, seafood is the specialty so tonight I see octopus is on various menus around town.

All is well. I guess I will be walking for another ten days.... today was day 16. I look forward to getting the scary part over with. There are many more new pilgrims now walking as we get closer to Santiago. They add a different flavour to the mix because they haven´t calmed down yet.... That takes a little time. And I don't find them as warm and fuzzy. Maybe that is just today´s mood.... As the newbies hit the camino, I see many awkward, heavy packs and more makeup after the walk is over for the day.

Thankfully, I spent a day in Burgos when I first started and just observed the pilgrims and realized my pack was way too heavy. So much for my kitchen sink....

Ponferrada 202 kms left to walk

My father taught me when the sky looks like this the sky is drawing water. I saw this sky the day I laid his rock at the cruz de Ferro..... yesterday

Me at the Cruz de Ferro yesterday

My rock I carried for my dad

The other side

Drat. I have no time to write tonight. I have a 10 pm curfew at the parish hostel I am staying at. Posting pictures takes a lot of time. My pack is lighter now that I no longer carry that rock. I think I forgave my father yesterday... finally. We'll see. Many magical moments that I have no time to write about now. I am in a city tonight after spending the last two nights in villages, Rabanel and El Acebo. I like the villages better but often there is no internet and in the cities I get lost so easily. I have a plan to live in Spain. Because I am so rushed, I don´t feel settled enough to write. Perhaps tomorrow when I am in another city Villa de la Franca, 20 kms down the road. All is well. I am absolutely loving my walk. I will post more pictures and write more later. The scenery is outstanding, rolling hills, quaint pueblos and loving people walking the way with me. I feel strong, pain free and lighter, physically, emotionally and spiritually. More about that later as well. I´ve got to go back to the hostel and strategically plan where I will place my mattress. It is warm enough to sleep outside in the court yard with the bicycles. I finished the granola today mom, sitting on the side of a mountain taking a break from my morning walk. It was divine.

Astorgos

Taken today on the bridge at Hospital de Orbigo

This picture taken today betweenVillar de Mazarife and Villavante at about 8 am....

Spring Rolls in Leon

Doing my laundry in Puenta Villarente

Me in Villalcazur de Sirga at the end of the day

I am beat. I walked 32 kms today just because... the other choice was to only walk 15. It is a beautiful city but I am too tired to take it in. OK pictures posted. Time to join my danish friend Pieter for dinner and my german friend Luisa. Early to bed. More stories later. I started walking today at 7¨30 and kept walking until almost 6PM. It was blistering hot and my feet were on fire. Still no blisters to report. I´ll take it easy tomorrow. Maybe just 20 ks.

Buenas noches a todos.

So rather than write, why don´t I post some pix....

Villar de la something, 30 kms this side of Astorga

Just a quick post today. Internet is slow and there is someone waiting. I walked 23 kms past Leon today. It feels good to be out of the city and back in the fields. I was perpeptually lost in Leon. I found myself wandering in the down town east side version of Leon. Saw a man taking a leak and another man having a theraputic puke. I spent the night with the benedictines and found it stuffy and too many rules. I wanted to sleep outside in the court yard and the nun told me to go to my bed. I compromised and slept in the hall. Walking out of Leon was hard but eventually found my way. So much for my kitchen sink... It was mailed to Leon from Burgos and now on to Santiago along with 5 other kilos of unneccesary stuff. I only wear my shorts and at the end of the day I slip into my dragon dress. No rain.

I ran into the lovely English man who found my glasses a few days ago. We got to say goodbye and I got to take his picture. I was hoping to run into him when I was in Leon and I asked you know who to nudge him and or me in the right direction. And alas I found Richard and Ken at the end of the day. Their camino is done now and they will continue it next year from where they left off.

All is well. No aches and pains. I think Santiago is about 285 klicks away. I don´t like to think about the end just now.

Thanks Malcolm for giving me a wonderful description of John´s service.

Buenas noches a todos. mfg

A mini Drama

Today I had a mini drama after that internet cafe I lost wrote in. I ended up spending a couple of hours there, drinking coffee and posting pictures. That snack that looked so delicious was... I got up, packed up my stuff and headed off for Vilarente. Halfway to Vilarente, I remembered I forgot to pay for my meal. I started to fret and wondered how I would explain my story to the police if need be. Then I started wondering what spanish prisons were like. Then I remembered I met a danish lawyer just after I left the internet cafe. My mind raced. When I got to the albergue, I explained my story to the hospitilera. She whisked me off in her car and drove me back to the cafe, a walk that took me an hour and a half was 10 minutes return in the car. The people in the cafe said tranquilo to me. I have managed to restore potential bad karma and I feel better.

Tomorrow I am off to Leon hopefully to stay in a benedictine monastry with vespers in the evening.

All is well. Time to get back to right now.

Las fotos...

A visual treasure on the camino this morning....The flower is actually growing in the sand.

My lunch in this internet cafe in Mansilla de las Mulas

Odd Expression taken this morning between el Burgo Ranero and Reliegos with happier rodillas knees

Just the facts today. No introspection or retrospection... I woke up this morning in the laundry room of an albergue. Delux accommodation, a private room for only 10 Euros. Gulped two cafe con leches in rapid succession at around 7 am. Then set out following the arrows.

I feel strong today and have stopped in la Mansilla de las Mulas for a little lunch and a wee blog. It´s still early so I am going to keep going, probably another 7 kms.

Here is my route so far. Burgos, Tardajos, Hontanas, Itera de la Vega, Fromista, Villacazar de Sirga, Calzadilla de le Cueza, El Burgo Ranero and tonight I think I will stop in Puenta Villarente for a total roughly of 157 kms walked.

Your granola is incredible mom. I have been spreading it out to make it last to complement delicious yogurt.

So a short walk to Leon tomorrow. 12 Kms or so and I may just hang out there for a bit. I love walking with my home on my back with no plans and no one to consult or wait for. Friends are easy to make and like Judy from Ottawa said last night at dinner the camino reminds her of university life without the angst and a broader range of ages.

Not much else to say really for today. I feel fan-fn-tastic! I look forward to seeing what is over the next bridge. Buen Camino....

Sahagun 102 kms walked...mas o menos

Piper in La Calzadilla de le Cueza

My laundry in Fromista....

Hola todos!
I am now in a sizeable city with a civilized internet cafe in a bar where I can smoke and sip a cool vino blanco. I might even try to upload some pix.

I went to bed last night under the stars thinking the camino is a lot like a cradle....people are gentle and caring and there is a real sense of acceptance and comradarie on the walk.... yet respect for one´s own space. I spend hours each day walking alone and often hook up with others when it´s time for a rest or at the end of the day. I have had magnificent talks with my father while walking.... the best we have ever had. The day before yesterday was blistering hot along the meseta. I took a quieter route with a small river on one side and hay fields and tired sunflower fields for as far as the eye can see over the table land. All of a sudden, I felt John´s presence. It was as if he was skipping and hovering over hay bales. We talked about acceptance and it was so loud but I felt him assure me that he was in fact proud of me. Now that he is not in a body, he feels so much more accessible and even nicer than I can ever remember. The feeling was so strong and so loud I said enough! This feels real but I need a sign that is unmistakable. I was about to send him away. He insisted on staying just a while longer, enough to ensure that I took a turn where I needed to. It was as if I felt a nudge because I was insistent on going a certain direction. Before I sent him off, I gave my father a task. I keep losing my reading glasses and I find them later in drinking fountains etc. I told John he was responsible for me keeping track of my glasses. Fine. The next day as I am walking out of a village, I am off in the ditch collecting garbage to tidy up the walk a bit. I didn´t realize I lost my glasses until about two hours later. Then I noticed. Ugh! Once I noticed, I said ok John, see if you can pull this one off. More hours passed. I stopped at a place to rest and just happened to mention to Patrick from Ireland and Veronica from Switzerland how I lost my glasses. 20 minutes before Richard from England had mentioned to them how he found a pair of glasses which was great because his were broken. I got my glasses back and told Richard my story. He gave me a nice hug and I gave him a spare pair that I had which were more suited to him. Yesterday was John´s memorial. It was another hot blistery day. At the end of the day, Richard, Patrick, Veronica and I shared tapas and a guy on the walk travelling with bagpipes played for us. He played a special song for my dad. As he played, off in the distance was a man on a tractor cutting hay. The scene was too perfect. John had a tractor which he loved.... Once again, I wept tears, these ones sweet and I payed homage to my father´s death 8 or so hours ahead of time in Ontario. Rest in Peace John Greaves. I haven´t heard from my brothers about the memorial yet but I look forward to hearing what music was played and who said what.

Today was a gentle 23 km walk. Richard, the guy who found my glasses has probably moved on. When I opted for the quieter some what longer route, I thought then, I am unlikely to see you again but thanks.... Today I have been walking for 7 days and I feel so strong. No aches or pains or blisters. I start walking around 7¨:30 and usually knock off around 3 pm. I am liking sleeping in the albergues. They feel like my family. I have three more weeks to walk. I love the rhythm of the day.

Fromista 63 Km walked

Fromista.... More about history later, I suppose. I could read my guide book and tell you what it says about Fromista but really, why bother? Perhaps I can add that in later.

Instead I will begin by telling you about a funeral service I witnessed in the last place I stayed, Itera de la Vega... A young teacher died (37 years old) and the population of 256 probably swelled 2 1´2 times its size to honour his death. It seems to me the siesta was bypassed in order for friends and family to gather around the outside bar to drink and eat and play loud music. Usually siesta time is quite tame.... At 6 pm there was a service in the church. The church bells rang in different patterns all afternoon... After the service, some 600 quiet solemn people followed the hearse through the village to the cemetery. No talking, just the church bells and the crunching and maneuvering of the pebbles on the dusty road. It was a beautiful September evening and even the sun couldn't lighten the mood. Because death is life.... I sat in silence and wept because the scene was surreal, outstandingly beautiful and I thought of my dad´s service I am going to be missing. I am sure John´s service will be on a beautiful September day where the sun is just as it is this time of year... syrupy and gentle. It was another one of those moments where all the senses are working. It was last night I realized I won´t hear John´s eulogy... and that makes me sad. I am not even sure even who is doing it.

Today I had a gentle easy walk along cut golden cut hay fields, withering plots of sunflowers and a canopied canal. I thought of how important it is to take care of oneself and others along the camino. One has to pay attention to every squeak in order to prevent blisters and damage to make the trip impossible. I met a german man this morning who overdid it in the first 3 days and now he is unable to continue. He is very sad and I suspect feeling a little humiliated.

So far so good for me. And it is a change to pay so much attention to my needs and wants. Simple really, rest, eat, drink water, walk, don´t over do it and the big mantra that everyone stresses and is the truest is to go at one´s own pace. To go at someone else´s pace invites problems, strains, misery.... a metaphor for life really. Before I left for trip, I spent precious little time even asking myself what my needs and wants are. Now it is simplified to the basics and I quite like it.

I have splurged on a room in a pension tonight so I don´t have to be disturbed or be disturbing to other pilgrims. I haven´t had a really good sleep in quite some time and today that is my need.

Soon I will make my way to join friends for dinner. Tracy wants to know what I am having. Simple and delicious. Salad with ice berg lettuce, tuna and the best olive oil, tomatoes, second course will probably be some kind of surprise fish and dessert is fruit, always a plain piece of fruit served with a knife and fork. All very civilized and simple and nourishing. Today I had the most delicious snack of a pickle cut in half stuffed with roasted red pepper and a tiny slice of anchovy fillet stuck together with olives and toothpicks. Yum! An explosion of different tastes all together.

The whole trip feels nourishing. To walk for 8 hours a day or so broken up with delightful coffees and conversations in different languages is most fun. No serious aches and pains really. Tomorrow I get to go to a pharmacy that is theoretically open to buy some knee supports.

I love being here and I love what I am doing right now. What a wonderful way to get a glimpse of Spain and even a closer look at myself. The journey continues both inner and outer.

Time to watch the sunset....

Itera de la vega - 48 kms walked

Along the way to Itera de la Vega


This morning I drank the most delicious cup of cafe con leche at 6 am at the hostel bar I stayed in last night. To be able to drink a coffee at that time of day is a rarity, usually bars don´t open until 9 am. I drank two in rapid succession and fueled I set out leaving Hontanas behind and walked along hay fields in the dark under the stars. No sounds really other than periodic church bells. As the sun came up I took a break at some ruins, all by myself with just the odd ambitious pilgrim walking by. 6 hours later after many fine moments, I am resting in Itera de la Vega. Socks are drying in the hot sun. Dinner will be with my camino friends and then early to bed.

Not much else to say really other than this is the most wonderful place to be right now and I feel fortunate and grateful for right now. It kind of feels like I am just emptying out thoughts and just concentrating on the basics. One foot in front of the other and paying attention to take care of aches and pains and to be as helpful to others as they are to me. The scenery both in the country side and through the hamlets is one surprise and delight after the other.

And I love speaking spanish and being immersed in this new (to me) culture. There is such a thing as heaven on earth.... truly. And I am most grateful to have this time in this way to say goodbye to my dad. Buen camino....

Hontanas 28 kms

This is part of A 17 km stretch between habitacions

The Meseta. I can walk for hours seeing no one in front of me or behind me

Hontanas is a 14th century village and I would have to say.... heaven.... My laundry is drying on the line, reservations for dinner with my new friends have been booked... I am clean. My clothes are clean and nothing hurts. That is right now.

It occurred to me as I set out on my walk this morning that I am living a dream, an important dream right now. That feels sooooooo good.



As Jimmy Buffett once sang, I finally found a life to suit my style.

People are kind. Food is always a surprise and a delight. I am working on my castillian accent...

I am on the meseta now, a few days more of being on a plateau. The hay fields go on for as far as the eye can see. And the haystacks resemble small apartment blocks.

Not much else to say right now. Because I want to get back to right now. I cançt figure out punctuation on my keyboard.

¨The ashes of my father are going to be buried by the Sycamore tree he planted and my brother has graciously selected a special rock from BC to bring to Ontario. Thanks Malcolm

Ok back to the el camino de compostela. Salud... Marjorie

Burgos and my dad....

My first flecha along the way

El catedral de Burgos

This is my first post in Spain. I haven´t known what to say because it´s hard to chit about Spain after hearing my father died of a massive stroke while I was en route. May you rest in peace, John Greaves. My father and I didn´t have the easiest of relationships and were estranged for 66.666666% of my life.... The remaining 33.33333% I was under the age of 15. My favourite thing he taught me was... ¨measure twice.... cut once.....¨John (as he liked to be called) was a math teacher and a damn good one.... I had him in grade 9. I will be thinking about you as I walk John.

I had these pious ideas about going to Church last night in Burgos to think about my father. El Catedral de Burgos is the second oldest church in Spain and dripping in gold paint and detail. I didn´t want to be alone and who do I share my sadness with? As it turns out, on my way to church I ran into the very first pilgrim I met when I got here in the morning. She was on her last day of my camino just as I start my first. Gisela from Brittany.... I shared with her a little about my dad and she invited me to join her for dinner with friends she has made along the camino who are continuing on to Santiago. 5 of us went out to dinner and it was nice to be with a travel family.
They say the camino takes care of what you need when you need it.... I look forward to reciprocating....

I am having a leisurely start today. I´ll probably hit the road at noon or so... I woke up at 2 am, thinking it was 4 am... Got all ready to go.... Couldn´t figure out why the revellers were still revelling.... Then I found out the real time and went back to bed.... and had my first good sleep in a long time.
I am having a lesiurely walk today and I am off to start the meseta... the flat, thinking part of the camino.... I will be leaving this city and off to the country side probably for the next two weeks or so. Not sure how much internet they will be. Burgos has delux internet - fast and lots of it.