Fromista 63 Km walked

Fromista.... More about history later, I suppose. I could read my guide book and tell you what it says about Fromista but really, why bother? Perhaps I can add that in later.

Instead I will begin by telling you about a funeral service I witnessed in the last place I stayed, Itera de la Vega... A young teacher died (37 years old) and the population of 256 probably swelled 2 1´2 times its size to honour his death. It seems to me the siesta was bypassed in order for friends and family to gather around the outside bar to drink and eat and play loud music. Usually siesta time is quite tame.... At 6 pm there was a service in the church. The church bells rang in different patterns all afternoon... After the service, some 600 quiet solemn people followed the hearse through the village to the cemetery. No talking, just the church bells and the crunching and maneuvering of the pebbles on the dusty road. It was a beautiful September evening and even the sun couldn't lighten the mood. Because death is life.... I sat in silence and wept because the scene was surreal, outstandingly beautiful and I thought of my dad´s service I am going to be missing. I am sure John´s service will be on a beautiful September day where the sun is just as it is this time of year... syrupy and gentle. It was another one of those moments where all the senses are working. It was last night I realized I won´t hear John´s eulogy... and that makes me sad. I am not even sure even who is doing it.

Today I had a gentle easy walk along cut golden cut hay fields, withering plots of sunflowers and a canopied canal. I thought of how important it is to take care of oneself and others along the camino. One has to pay attention to every squeak in order to prevent blisters and damage to make the trip impossible. I met a german man this morning who overdid it in the first 3 days and now he is unable to continue. He is very sad and I suspect feeling a little humiliated.

So far so good for me. And it is a change to pay so much attention to my needs and wants. Simple really, rest, eat, drink water, walk, don´t over do it and the big mantra that everyone stresses and is the truest is to go at one´s own pace. To go at someone else´s pace invites problems, strains, misery.... a metaphor for life really. Before I left for trip, I spent precious little time even asking myself what my needs and wants are. Now it is simplified to the basics and I quite like it.

I have splurged on a room in a pension tonight so I don´t have to be disturbed or be disturbing to other pilgrims. I haven´t had a really good sleep in quite some time and today that is my need.

Soon I will make my way to join friends for dinner. Tracy wants to know what I am having. Simple and delicious. Salad with ice berg lettuce, tuna and the best olive oil, tomatoes, second course will probably be some kind of surprise fish and dessert is fruit, always a plain piece of fruit served with a knife and fork. All very civilized and simple and nourishing. Today I had the most delicious snack of a pickle cut in half stuffed with roasted red pepper and a tiny slice of anchovy fillet stuck together with olives and toothpicks. Yum! An explosion of different tastes all together.

The whole trip feels nourishing. To walk for 8 hours a day or so broken up with delightful coffees and conversations in different languages is most fun. No serious aches and pains really. Tomorrow I get to go to a pharmacy that is theoretically open to buy some knee supports.

I love being here and I love what I am doing right now. What a wonderful way to get a glimpse of Spain and even a closer look at myself. The journey continues both inner and outer.

Time to watch the sunset....